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Logan Square, Humboldt Park, Avondale

Papa Cenar, New Tapas Spot Inspired By Ernest Hemingway, Now Open In Logan Square

The new restaurant at 2445 N. Milwaukee Ave. replaced Twain, which closed after just eight months.

The pork chop at Papa Cenar, now open at 2445 N. Milwaukee Ave.
Courtesy of Margaret Rajic
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LOGAN SQUARE — A new tapas restaurant inspired by Ernest “Papa” Hemingway’s “adventures in the grand cafés of Europe” has taken over the former Twain spot in Logan Square.

The new restaurant, called Papa Cenar, opened earlier this week at 2445 N. Milwaukee Ave.

Folks can expect Mediterranean and Spanish tapas in the form of shareable plates like smoked short ribs with white onion puree and main plates like whole grilled branzino with mole rojo, as well as a Mediterranean wine list and cocktails.

Credit: Courtesy of Margaret Rajic
The white fish dip at Papa Cenar.

Behind the restaurant is Branko Palikuca of The Dawson, Topaz Café, Amber Café and Citrine Café. Palikuca was the co-owner of Twain, which closed after just eight months for reconcepting. Tim Graham and his wife, Rebekah, teamed up with Palikuca on Twain, which was named for Mark Twain.

Papa Cenar was designed to look like one of Hemingway’s 1920s-era European haunts, “where aristocrats and street hustlers, warriors and artists of all kinds met to flirt, drink and dine, where any encounter might inspire a painting or a romance, a poem or a philosophical stew,” according to a news release.

Credit: Courtesy of Tom Rossiter
Inside the new restaurant at 2445 N. Milwaukee Ave.

The new restaurant is now open for dinner 4-10 p.m. Tuesday – Thursday, 4-11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and 4-9 p.m. Sundays. Weekend brunch service will begin in about two weeks.

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